Sample India's superb history at Bhaje caves

The Bhaje caves

The main prayer hall

This was one of our rare spontaneous trips (given the compulsive planner that I am). We looked up some sites and set out early on Sunday morning for Bhaje caves (or लेणी in Marathi). We took the old Pune-Mumbai highway, which by the way makes for an amazing drive (I travel to Mumbai for work so often that I've developed an express highway-fatigue so the old highway was a good change).

To get to Bhaje, you take a left at Karle village (about 45 km from Pune). An old, dusty board confirms you are on the right track. Bhaje is about 4 kms from here and the road is surprisingly motorable. You can leave your car at the parking and then set out on foot for the last couple of kilometers. The other option is to take a Pune-Lonavala local till Malavali and then walk; which would be about 3 kms to the top. The climb is steep and if you are not a regular at exercise, you will definitely need to take at least one break. We were fortunate to have amazing weather that day. Climbing in the sun could be bad.

The caves show themselves suddenly from one point on, and what you behold is stunning. There is a large prayer hall and several caves that must've served as resting rooms for the monks, complete with a water storage area. The main hall is magnificient and hosts a large stone stupa... as always one wonders how people must have built them in the 2nd Century AD! Going up and down the stone stairways feels adventurous. The view is breath-taking, which I think must've inspired the architect back then! Be sure not to miss the stupas towards the right of the caves further along the road. The same road leads to Fort Lohagad, a popular trekking route. But we decided to try that some other time.

Bhaje is one of the three ancient caves near Karle. Bedse caves near Kamshet I hear are along similar lines as Bhaje. Karle caves on the other side of the road are the largest. We attempted going there last year on the way back from Lonavala but gave up mid-way. The road to the caves passes through a temple and is absolutely filthy and downright repulsive.

There is a small entrance fee of Rs.5 for the Bhaje caves, which seems to get utilized in maintaining the caves as the premises are clean and well conserved by the Archeological Society of India. I wish there was a big fee for the entire area and heavy fines for littering. There was especially a large group ahead of us - all educated looking youngsters - and pitifully we saw several of them littering all over the way, spitting, shouting; it struck me what a horrible failure our education system is for not imbibing this basic social discipline and respect for history in us!

My verdict: 4 out of 5. Bhaje makes for a great half-day trip when the weather's good. Leave early in the morning to avoid the sun. Best not to take older people along as the climb is not exactly easy. Carry food and water as the old highway hardly has any good eateries left.