"The Old Man and His God" - a poignant collection

I found Sudha Murthy's "Old Man and His God: Discovering the Spirit of India" lying at our old apartment. The title didn't particularly interest me and assumed it would be some philosophical rendition of existentialism. Consequently the book was further lying around in my bedroom for several days before I picked it up one lazy Sunday afternoon for want of nothing better to do. How I regret not doing that earlier! The book is far from a discourse, it is in fact a collection of short stories, a third in a series, based on real incidences in Sudha Murthy's life and travels.

This is a book that can change your entire perspective of looking at people. Sudha Murthy's sincere, down-to-earth, practical writing style and the sheer simplicity of characters, stories and incidents portrayed in this book are apparent in every single page, every single line that she pens. The stories are crisp and have an inherent lesson or moral, but this is not clearly spelt out and left to the reader's interpretation. The reader is bound to relate to one or the other character every few pages and that keeps the interest alive through out.

I was especially touched by the story "The way you look at it", where Murthy recounts hearing criticism about a public toilet scheme started by her for rural women; but does not get discouraged by the remarks as no matter what you do, you cannot please everyone. However, if you are convinced about something, you should go ahead and do it with conviction nevertheless.

My verdict: Certainly not a book you can miss! A penguin publication, priced at Rs.150. I am now looking forward to reading the other two volumes in the series.

Post-91 - the attraction begins post the main course

Yes - desserts are among the few praise-worthy things about this restaurant - they have the choicest spread of cakes, mousses and Indian sweets in the lunch buffet. The rest of the stuff in the restaurant has nothing particularly unique to offer, but let's say it's not bad either.

Post-91 is located in lane 6 of Koregaon Park, opposite Kapoor's Yellow Chilly. I believe the name has something to do with the post-liberalization era in India - the relevance beats me. Anyway!
I've visited them 3-4 times as they are conveniently located from my office, have a buffet which makes for a quick working lunch and is generally not that crowded on a week day so it's peaceful. The ambience is decent, service is just about acceptable (though out of the 2-3 times I've been there, I've witnessed a couple of goof-ups), food is ok. I've generally liked the soups they've served, especially the carrot-tomato coriander soup I had there the last time I went.

Even then, I think there are plenty of things that can be got right in this place. First, the buffet spread is a bit hotch-potch. I mean multi-cuisine is one thing, but having too many dishes on board can get quite... err... confusing. For example, what do you eat a chinese stir fry with if the rice items include plain rice and an Indian biryani?

Also, some of the preparations are not exactly what you would call authentic. Sample this, there was an attractive looking salad bar the last time, but unfortunately whatever you asked for (the choices included three different dressings), you would get the same concoction. The cook manning the salad bar was adding whatever was available in front of him and the end result was not very exciting.

These and other experiences reduce the potential of the great place that Post-91 can aspire to be! For the price range (Rs.300 onwards - plus there are at least 2 pricing options in the buffet), let's say its value for money.

My verdict: You could try it out sometime, grab a quick bite if you work around the area and want to take someone out, but don't build too many expectations.

Prathamesh Holiday Homes Resort - You can find better in Diveagar

I booked this hotel after reading extremely good reviews about it all over on the internet. When we arrived first at Prathamesh, we could see nothing overtly wrong with the hotel. In fact, our first day there was great. The manager helped us out with sightseeing information and the staff appeared friendly. 

The trouble began on the second evening when we came back to the room and saw that several cockroaches had crept in through a window left open by the housekeeping staff! Our desperate calls for the staff yielded nothing but a bottle of insect repellant which my husband had to spray on the roaches himself. It didnt stop there. Throughout the night, we had cockroaches entering into our room from the gap below the door. Further searches in the room revealed tons of eggs in the horribly maintained furniture. By morning we had had enough and decided to check out. The staff had no explanation to provide, with not much resistance to our decision! 

It spoiled our beautiful experience of serene Diveagar. I could've easily excused the hotel for the cockroach incidence in a rural place like Diveagar, but the attitude of the staff simply didnt deserve this. 

There are several better places in Diveagar I am told. In fact, it would have been better if we'd left behind our urban compulsion to have an AC hotel and tried a home-stay instead.

Some other problems: The restaurant attached to the hotel is terrible. We had only one meal there and decided never to eat there again. If you do not have a car, this place is far away from the central area with the temple and eateries and walking at night doesn't exactly make you comfortable. Beach access is at least ten minutes away.

Mainland China - Never Disappoints

This is a restaurant I have gone back to several times in the last few years and it has never let me down!
We dined at the Senapati Road branch for our anniversary. The ambience gets it just right and the service is impeccable. Our visit coincided with a food festival they had on the occassion of the Chinese new year, and we tried some delicacies from the special menu.

The starter we ordered - Drums of Heaven in Hong kong sauce was juicy and tasty. In the main course, we tried out braised chicken in orange and black bean sauce and whole wheat noodles with leeks and shiitake mushrooms, again fantastic stuff. The chicken portion I thought was a little small, just about adequate for two people.

My experience with desserts at Mainland China in the past has not been up to the mark and I've indicated that in the feedback forms I've filled over there. This time, we didn't have to order any dessert at all. While making the dinner reservation, they had asked me if there was a special occasion and accordingly, presented us a nice cake after the main course. The gesture was touching and made our evening, and will make us go back for our next special meal.

The best part of this restaurant is the quiet service. You never have to ask for anything, it's as if they know exactly what you are going to require the next moment. Yet, it never seems as if you are being watched or excessively fussed over.

My verdict: I just love this place, and despite the relatively high price tag, I feel like I derive good value out of the money that I spend. A meal for two a la carte including a drink each can cost from Rs.1000 to Rs. 2000 depending on what you order.

Their branch on Dhole Patil road has a lunch buffet, which is more value for money. Besides, you get to sample a variety of dishes in the buffet.

Refreshingly Konkan – Part V – Murud Harnai

From Bankot, we took the road to Kelshi phata and reached Murud Harnai via Anjarle. There is a new road from Aade to Dapoli now, saving distance, and again offering fantastic scenary that is characteristic of Konkan! Especially worth mentioning is the bridge across the creek at Murde soon after Anjarle. Both Aade and Anjarle are typical Konkani villages and you'll enjoy the drive through them. It does tend to get a bit remote and lonely between villages though. And the road is not that great at certain places. It is best to avoid traveling after sundown.

Our resort at Murud Harnai was bang on the beach (something that we didn't get to enjoy at Diveagar actually) and we could see a beautiful sunset right from our room's sitout.

The next morning we went to the beach early and took a boat ride to see dolphins. The atmosphere was so serene, with the sound of the sea waves, flocks of birds of all sorts flying across and then the dolphins, gently cruising along the water revealing themselves every once a while. The shine and the grace of the species are unparalleled and I have a feeling they too are more than aware of the interest they generate among us humans.

It was time to pack up and leave soon after. The end of a holiday always brings two-fold emotions – the reminiscence of the days gone by and the regret of having to leave behind the beauty and peace and get back into routine.

The drive back via Dapoli -- Poladpur -- Mahabaleshwar -- Wai -- Pune was uneventful, except for the stopover at Mapro's in Panchgani where we had dollops of soft strawberry and lichee icecream and the jumbo grilled sandwich - their specialty.

My verdict: If you live in Mumbai/Pune (or anywhere for that matter) and haven't been to Konkan, you are really missing something in life.

Refreshingly Konkan – Part IV – Diveagar to Bankot Fort

The road along the coast from Diveagar to Srivardhan

Bankot Fort
Jetty from Bagmandla to Bankot

Our next route from Diveagar to Bankot Fort was full of scenic spots and much adventure. The road from Diveagar to Srivardhan (about 11 kms) runs parallel to the coast and is breathtakingly beautiful. We reached Harihareshwar around lunch time and stopped at MTDC's Grasshopper Inn restaurant to refuel. The fare is just about ok, but the location of the restaurant bang on the seashore adds something extraordinary to the experience. Bankot fort is vaguely visible from the restaurant, but one has to cross the creek to get there.

There is a jetty service which ferries people, vehicles as well as animals across the creek from Bagmandla to Bankot. The journey of around 1.5 kms takes 10 minutes and saves you 100 kms of road travel had you been forced to take the land route instead. It reminded me of a similar passage in Goa when the bridge across the Mandovi river at Panaji had collapsed. I must've been very young but have vivid memories of that trip!

When we got off at Bankot, we stopped to get directions to the fort from a couple on a bike. They suggested a road through the village that was obviously not a problem for them, but with our four-wheeler, we were almost negotiating through people's houses. With bated breath, we braved the bylanes of Bankot and its paraphernalia of vendors, street shops, cattle, racing poultry, pigs, stray dogs, and cats, and arrived intact at Bankot feeling really lucky! If you have to do this, I suggest taking the left turn (via a more circuitous route) after the jetty harbour and approach Bankot from the highway side.

Unfortunately after all the adventure, there is nothing much at Bankot. The entrance gate is majestic, but not unique. But the fort itself is very small and can be seen in less than 5 minutes. That's not only because it is in ruins but also because there does not seem to be any major historical significance attached to the place. The view is marvelous though and can hold you for much longer.

My verdict: The fort itself may not be that exciting, but the route is an unforgettable experience. We proceeded to Murud Harnai from here.

Refreshingly Konkan – Part III – Janjira Fort – the sole disappointment

Janjira Fort - from the ferry
View from the top of the fort

Despite the grandeur of the fort, this trip left us somewhat disappointed for very many reasons. One, the company was pathetic. The entire place seemed to be teeming with youths who had no interest in the fort or its history but were there only to make a racket and shout some or the other slogans the entire time.

Two, the place where you get the ferry from, Dighi, is unbelievably filthy. Three, no one knows what time the ferry exactly leaves. We got several different versions from people. But the truth is that the ferry doesn't leave until it fills its quorum of 50 people. On the Sunday that we went, this happened at around 10 am. Consequently, spending an hour waiting for the ferry for the three reasons above was grueling.

Four, the guide was rather sad. Some tidbits of info he gave us seemed interesting and logical, but the other stuff was so dismal that even you and I could do a better job just by the strength of our GK! Reason five was that you have to compulsorily buy a return ticket for the ferry which allows you about 45 minutes to see the fort. You don't get to see even a corner of it in that time. Besides, after we got hurriedly back to the entrance, we were waiting to board the ferry for another 15 min, which we could've spent inside the fort. The fort has 22 Buruj or viewing points, some 120+ cannons, several ponds and wells that have fresh water right in the middle of the sea, a secret passage-way, hundreds of other places – how can anyone do justice to it in 45 minutes?

Reason number six – the fort is shockingly badly maintained. For once, the Archeological Survey of India seemed to have no control on the environs and the unclean surroundings presented a very sorry picture. The main water body on the fort was fully covered in green moss and had all sorts of waste dumped into it. The fort was privately owned by the Siddhis but has been taken over by the Central Government since 1972 (according to the guide). Yet, there was no entry ticket or an organized, formal system for guides like in the case of other forts in Maharashtra like Raigad and Pratapgad for instance.

In its hey days, Janjira must have been a majestic monument that stood tall against all its conquerors – to date it remains undefeated. Today, it is in shambles and its desperate calls for attention are going unheard!

Done my way and at my pace, this trip had the potential of being etched in my memory forever.

My verdict: No comments.

Refreshingly Konkan – Part II – Diveagar

The Mandar flower
Idlimbu

Sunset at Diveagar beach

Continuing on road trip, we went to Diveagar after visiting Kude caves. The route we took was Kude – Mandad – Mhasala – Vadavali Phata – Borli Panchayatan – Diveagar. Diveagar is a place where you can get a holistic rural experience and a taste of the typical Maharashtrian food and living. It would be a pity to try to spoil it by expecting too much out of your hotel or resort. There are functional but decent resorts – MTDC Exotica, Ambiance Cottages, Pinakin Resort, Prathamesh Holiday Homes – and plenty of good home-stay places – Kelkar, Bhatkar – which you can try out. Most of the places are not actually 'on' the beach – but at a distance of about 5 min walking distance.

The best thing to do in Diveagar is to hit the beach at every opportunity you get and just sit and marvel the bounties of nature. Diveagar is managed by a conscious and aware Gram Panchayat which works to keep the beach clean. There are a few rules put up on boards at all entry points to the beach, such as – don't wear scanty clothing on the beach, don't litter around, etc. Reasonable ones, I'd say.

Another great aspect of this place is the food. Albeit, you need to plan out your stay and inform the eateries in advance (ideally 3-4 hours before the meal) to ensure:

1. That you get a meal. There isn't exactly a restaurant system and food is made to order.
2. That you get a meal of your choice. You can 'add-on' to your thali by ordering ukdiche modak, ambolis, solkadhi, fish, chicken, etc as the case may be – be sure to ask your host about the menu for the meal and what else they can provide, when you place the order. They are unlikely to 'market' their services and you might regret not asking earlier when you see others around gorging on modaks or fish that you so wanted to try.

A lot of the vegetarian eateries are owned by Kokonastha Bramhins – so also expect some highly practical talk (read straight talk) and don't get upset by it! The food that you get to savor beats it all! The non-vegetarian eateries serve fresh fish, prawns and chicken. We really liked the food at Suvarnaganesh Khanawal.

There is no major sight-seeing possibility in Diveagar apart from the Ganesh temple with a recently discovered 1000-year old Ganesh idol. I obviously did not visit the temple so don't ask me about it! However there are few places in a one-hour radius – Kuda caves, Janjira Fort, Harihareshwar, etc.

We had some rare insights into stuff from everyday life – I actually saw a Jayphal (nutmeg) fruit for the first time in life. We even visited a Poha (puffed rice) mill. Poha is made out of husked/ unpolished rice that is soaked for 24 hours, roasted along with sand and then pressed. What a revelation! We also saw a 'Mandar' flower for the first time and an 'Id-limbu' (very big lemon) tree.

My verdict: If you even vaguely enjoy road travel and beaches, do not miss out on this beautiful getaway. However, roads in Konkan leave much to be desired, so it is better to add an hour or two to your most pessimistic travel time expectations.

Some phone numbers for the eateries: Kelkar's eatery; Suhas Bapat's eatery 09423837967, 09271127337; Suvarnaganesh Khanawal (Mr. Parkar) 02147-225045.

Refreshingly Konkan – Part I – Kuda caves

The row of caves at Kuda
The view from the top
Carvings inside one of the caves

I have just returned from a road trip to Konkan and my next few posts are going to be about the places we visited. I'll start with our first destination – Kuda Caves.

Kude is on the way to Mhasala from Mandad on the Mumbai-Goa highway. If you are proceeding from Tamhini ghat, you need to take a right turn as you hit the highway and then turn left at Indapur towards Tale or Mandad. Kuda caves is about 5-6 kms after Tale. On the way, you can see the Tale fort (we didn't go right up to the top. I believe there is nothing much over there). Kuda caves are about 2000 years old are similar to the Bhaje caves I've reviewed earlier. The origins are Buddhist, but there are some Greek carvings on the walls. The only (big) difference being that Kude overlooks the sea. The view of the sea from the caves is simply superb.

There are about 25 caves and a central prayer hall. The entrance to the prayer hall has a magnificent figurine of an elephant, which is in ruins now, unfortunately. The caves are built at two levels. The architecture is very interesting, with the caves used for dwelling supplied with a window and door each, as well as a platform that was likely used for sleeping.

There is no historical or any information displayed near the caves, neither any entrance ticket. In fact, you would be fortunate if you find a single soul around the place. Best to be careful in the area. We went there on a weekday, and the only company we had was a group of youngsters who left soon after we reached there.

My Verdict: This is an adventurous stop-over on the way to Diveagar for people who are interested in history and archeology, or want to just enjoy the view. Nothing much to write home about beyond that! Sincerely wish we Indians would show more respect for our history than we appear to.

Offbeat tracks in Maharashtra - A treat for the wanderlust-ed

I've admired Milind Gunaji (despite those totally disappointing villanous roles he chooses to do in Hindi and Marathi cinema). When I heard about his book "Offbeat tracks in Maharashtra", my awe about him increased! He is not only very well-traveled but is also a terrific photographer. His show called Bhatkanti on some Marathi channel (not sure if its still on) used to be interesting.

This book is a travel guide costing Rs. 250 (second edition - Popular Prakashan). Gunaji has reviewed some of the rarest spots in Maharashtra, and presents them in categories such as forts, temples, hill stations, jungles, sanctuaries and nature parks, lakes, reservoirs, hot springs, waterfalls, caves, museums and unusual places of interest. An exhilarating spread!

Gunaji gives you a run-down on each place along with a brief history, the route you can take and the facilities available out there. The product is almost an encyclopedia and even an avid traveler in Maharashtra may find a few that s/he hadn't heard of!

The forts are the best part of the book, since Maharashtra is credited with a long and understated history of forts. I'd seen a photography exhibition a few years ago on forts in Maharashtra that left me spellbound; Gunaji brought back those memories. The museum section has very few that I didn't know of, but the section on caves and lakes and sanctuaries was a bouncer - I had no idea there were so many different places to visit in a radius of 100-250 kms from where I live! I'm least interested in temples and could as well seal the section forever, so I wont comment on those here.

One among my (small) set of cribs is that the book could have included some more information under each category. Currently, the material is a wee bit too brief and you have to look up further info on the internet to actually plan a trip here.
The maps are pretty useless, and do not add value either in terms of getting to the place or figuring out the location. It would've been better to include a center spread with places and roads marked off. More photographs would also have been welcome.

My verdict: All in all a fantastic attempt. Hats off to the man. This is a must-have coffee table book for people like us who just love to get into the car and zoom off! We've already started ticking off from the table of contents.